"Funkhaus" & "Milchbar", Berlin
- en roUTE
- Sep 24, 2024
- 4 min read
Jewel and Ostalgie on the river Spree
Nalepastrasse is located in Berlin-Oberschöneweide, far away from the tourist hustle and bustle. At the level of Karlshorst (Hegemeisterweg) you will find the "Funkhaus", which stretches out in functional industrial architecture and bears witness to the rich broadcasting history of the former GDR. The nearby Ehrlichstrasse was named after the architect Franz Ehrlich (a Bauhaus student).
Excursus:
Oberschöneweide was and is affectionately called "Oberschweineöde" by (East) Berliners and those who have lived there for a long time, as the area was characterised by industry, dust and dirt until the fall of the Wall. Not a place for recreation! Now the industrial areas have been redeveloped, cultivated and greened.
On closer view, the massive buildings look typical of the GDR - simple and sober. The walk through the entrance gate suggests an industrial estate. A container is full of letterboxes with various company names on them.
If you wander further towards the banks of the Spree, you can sense the serenity and independence of the place where musical rebellion began. A breath of freedom and independence that still wafts through the air. Understandable, that the locals feel at home in this place.
Chilling is the motto!
Those who spend an afternoon here have a top spot with a perfect view of the Spree. Refreshments, coffee, cakes and snacks are provided in the "Milchbar", which not only makes the hearts of fans beat faster from the outside, but also from the inside with its authentic GDR furnishing style in 70s charm.
Linger, savour and muse!
I suddenly felt transported back into the GDR time. There was a "Milchbar" (milk-ice cream-bar) in every district capital and county town, which was the place to meet for a coffee and ice cream. Even the lettering on the Funkhaus restaurant is a reminder of this. A dream, even for non-nostalgics.
You can go swimming or do all kinds of water sports. Even water yoga is on offer. Directly opposite, Treptower Park and Plänterwald forest are waiting to be discovered. Both are places worth visiting in their own right to escape from the hustle and bustle of Berlin and simply enjoy the greenery. The Funkhaus is an excellent and interesting starting point for walks along the Spree.
The "Funkhaus" comes up with its unique history
After the GDR Radio had to leave the "Haus des Rundfunks" in Masurenallee (Charlottenburg, then British sector) in 1950, a new broadcasting centre was being sought. The location was found in the former plywood factory in Nalepastrasse (Nalepastreet). The construction of the "Funkhaus" began in various phases and blocks. The five-storey skeleton building (E-R) stands out and can be recognised from afar on Rummelsburger Landstrasse.
The modern broadcasting studios housed all of the national GDR radio stations, including Berliner Rundfunk, Deutschlandsender, DDR I and II as well as the later youth radio station DT64, which brought a different sound to radio with its pop culture and caused a sensation. Originally intended to prevent East German youth from listening to West German radio and disseminated criticism of the regime in the form of music. Some GDR bands, such as Silly or City, camouflaged their critical stance through their music and lyrics. However, there was also room for punk, indie, GDR hip-hop, hard rock and stars from the West.
Developed into a full programme with its own frequency for young people in the 1980s, DT64 was a station that was different and that I enjoyed listening to. A presumably liberal, democratic contrast programme despite strict state control. In 1989, DT64 became more courageous, reporting "through the flower", so to speak, about bans (e.g. of the magazine ‘Sputnik’), about the Monday demonstrations, about taboos such as far-right extremism and homosexuality. The end of the radio station came after the fall of the Berlin Wall with reorganisations in the 1990s.
After reunification, GDR radio no longer had a future. The buildings initially stood empty. After a period of change, the Funkhaus is once again available as a music centre. International bands and artists such as Depeche Mode produce(d) music in this place. Festivals are also held here.
The Rummelsburg prison (then Hauptstrasse 8) was located near the Funkhaus opposite the Stralau peninsula. In the 1970s and 1980s, it served as a detention centre for several thousand citizens, including escape helpers, who were sometimes ransomed by the FRG. Its most famous inmate was Erich Honecker (Chairman of the GDR State Council), who spent one night there on 29 January 1990. The closure in October 1990 initially left the buildings empty and abandoned. Today it houses flats, lofts and a hotel.
You can imagine that the area around Köpenicker Chaussee and Rummelsburger Landstrasse was not very inviting in those days. When I lived in Karlshorst, I remember that the area seemed dreary to me. Riding by tram (No. 21) or by car, especially at weekends, was characterised by a very empty atmosphere. However, the route proved to be a welcome way to avoid the all-too-frequent traffic jams on Treskowallee.
Funkhaus:
Nalepastrasse 18
12459 Berlin
Website:
Public transport:
Tram line 21 to the stop Köpenicker Chaussee/Blockdammweg. From there it is a few minutes' walk.
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