The Bay of Kotor

A Fjord Paradise in Montenegro

Some places are not mere points on a map. They are landscapes of the soul, where time itself slows and calls out to be discovered.

The Bay of Kotor is one such place — a blue, branching fjord that winds through Montenegro's Adriatic coast and mountain ranges.

From Zvinje, a peaceful guardian watching over the coast, a panorama unfolds that leaves you speechless. Here, where only the sound of cicadas punctuates the quiet, the bay below appears as a jewel-encrusted robe, its colors changing with the passing light of the day.

Bay of Kotor at evening

Bay of Kotor in the morning

Across the water lies Herceg Novi, once a city of blooming mimosas cradled by untouched nature, which has transformed over the last 35 years into a vibrant town. While it's the perfect destination for lovers of nightlife, those who seek peace would do well to continue their journey. Still, its small, picturesque old town, with its charming houses, inviting boutiques, and an age-old fortress serve as a testament to the past's grandeur and the vibrant life that now fills its historic stone walls.

Little remains in this corner of the world from the traces of my childhood in the 1970s and the one I revisited in 1990 after the fall of the Wall in East-Germany from where I come. Modernity has made its entry, bringing with it a mix of auxiliary buildings, annexes, high-rises, and—for locals and tourists alike—more than a few architectural sins.

But along the road that winds around the bay, you'll discover a series of storybook vistas. It's essential to pause, soak in the views, go for a swim, or find a fish restaurant to settle into. A top recommendation is the rustic "Uzgajaliste Ostriga" just before Dobrota. The mussels and fish there come directly from the water, arriving at your table fresh and perfectly prepared (farm to table).

Uzgajaliste Ostriga

Shellfishs und Fish

History is palpable in Risan, the bay's most ancient settlement. In this place, once a seat of power for Illyrian queens, stand the Roman mosaics—stone relics that have endured through the ages. The god Hypnos, in his peaceful mosaic form, appears to watch over the timeless calm of the site, a quiet testament to a time when his Roman predecessors made the bay’s very heart their own.

The romantic heart of the bay is Perast. In its narrow streets, where time stands still as if in a storybook, every stone façade whispers tales of seafarers and captains, of the Venetian splendor that once resided here. This car-free coastal town has preserved the charm of its bygone golden age.

Yet, the true magic lies just off the coast with the two islands, "Saint George" and "Our Lady of the Rocks,"which appear from the depths like a submerged Venice. The water's blue is of an astonishing intensity — a sheer ultramarine curtain where the sky itself is reflected.

The culmination of the bay’s beauty is the city of Kotor. Guarded by an unconquerable medieval wall that meanders up the mountain, it reveals itself as an architectural masterpiece. Its slender alleys are a maze of secluded squares, vibrant cafes, and age-old churches. The scent of bougainvillea mixes with the sea's salty whisper, and every step on the stones is a silent conversation with centuries past. With a spirit of slowness, one can find tranquility and feel like a piece of an old mystery.

The word of its beauty has spread, and so cruise ships now anchor in Kotor's harbor. Consequently, the best time for a visit is in the late afternoon or evening, or at the break of dawn.  

Kotor, market place

Kotor old town

The charm of the bay truly unfolds when the sun bathes the mountains in a golden light. Everything comes to a rest. The return journey on the opposite side, through Prcanj to the ferry, leads through small, lovely villages that are not quite as overrun with tourists.

The panoramic route 3, which winds from Montenegro’s impressive Adriatic coast, through its picturesque old towns and stunning beaches, to the Bay of Kotor, offers countless spectacular views. Drive high into the mountains behind Kotor and stop at one of the many viewpoints to savor the breathtaking scenery.

For hiking and biking enthusiasts, the cable car offers a stunning ascent from the Dub valley station near the Vrmac Tunnel to the Kuk mountain station in Lovćen National Park. At this altitude, the view is a feast for the senses. Your gaze drifts across the peaks and valleys to the deep azure of the bay below, where the old stone houses shimmer like scattered pearls in the sunlight.

Information:

To truly savor the atmosphere of popular spots like Kotor and Perast, it is advisable to schedule your trip outside of the main tourist seasons.